
In the silence of the early morning darkness two gorillas followed us to town. Ahead could be heard the roar of party goers, firecrackers and traditional Carnival music, known to the Swiss as Guggenmusik. My legs, still sore from the previous day’s ski race, forced us to descend the steep stairs to the city of Luzern slowly allowing the gorillas to pass by, leaving in their wake a fog of alcohol.
At 5 a.m., the prospect of a raging party in the ice cold rain seems like something I would go back to sleep and avoid. But I was excited, it was my first Fasnacht, the ancient and traditional festival to force away the dark, winter spirits and prepare for spring and warmer temperatures. In modern times, it is a 6 day, round the clock party that allows the Swiss to cut loose. Mayhem, chaotic, jubilant, filthy, and loud are not words typically used to describe the Swiss, but for this week all pretenses are dropped. Hiding behind beautifully constructed masks, they let’er rip.
I was skeptical to wake in the dark, put on a dress and mask then dance through the early morning hours in a sleet storm. But, hours later, sitting in a cafe, my legs newly sore from dancing, I was anything but upset about the early wake up. Fasnacht is something everyone should experience. Like everything the Swiss do, it is perfect.

Janine in costume

A mask from a band member


For one brief moment, the sun appeared, and with it a family of sunflowers

Urban ski touring

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And the most popular booth
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