Category Archives: Friends

Behind the Scenes in Zermatt

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Keith and Julie

For anyone having been to Zermatt, Switzerland they know it is a bit like Disneyland. A village which doesn’t seem quite real, maybe it is a little too “Swiss”. Yes it gorgeous, yes it is a brilliant place to spend some days and yes the Matterhorn is one of the most magnificent sites to behold. But as tourists, we drop in, hike this, climb that, eat raclette & a rösti and check out.

Years ago Janine and I spent several summers in a row in the Zermatt Valley, we got to know the area like locals but did not get to know many of the locals. This trip was different and served as reminder of what is likely the best part of our job, getting to know all different sorts of people.

Our job was to shoot a clothing catalog, hiking, lifestyle and some travel scenarios. The hiking segment was of two of our great friends visiting from California, but for the travel we needed models, three of them. The hunt was on within Zermatt’s cute streets, but not just for any models, they had to be between 35-45 years old, good looking, fit, athletic, the man 182cm the woman 172 cm, thin, with a day to give to us and of most important of all, animated and not shy with a lens in their face.

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Keith and Julie

Mountain shops, galleries, the tourism office, bars, cafes and even strangers on the street were all paid visits by two photographers with a funny greeting, “Hello, we are photographers shooting a job here in Zermatt and are in need of models. Would you be interested?”  One can only imagine the awkward scenario that follows.

“Oh, you speak none of my languages.” Or, working around the he is good but she is not scenario, or vice versa. Of course if approaching a woman, I had to be alongside Janine or it looked like a creative pick up line. And then there is the all too common perfect looking person meeting all the requirements but discovering one big void, personality.

As we began searching, we quickly realized what was happening, we were being forced to talk to all sorts of people we might not typically engage in conversation, and the Zermatt experience was becoming more special for the people we were meeting than for the scenery above this idyllic town. Soon we were part of the scene, knowing numerous locals walking the streets, being invited here and there, hanging at the right bars, and being treated like a friend and not just a customer of the town.

When we finally had our models, 3 Swiss, they were the icing on the cake. Fun was had in great abundance during the shoot, there was no need for us to direct smiles or fun interaction. It came naturally. The right people make our job easy and enjoyable, just like the right people that you let into your lives make life easy and enjoyable.

Many, many thanks to all our new friends in Zermatt.

MP-Productions: Location Scouting and Talent in Zermatt and the Alps

Zermatt Tourism

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Katja, Elmar and Eva in Zermatt

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We love spontaneous models

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"For your viewing pleasure, may we present, the Matterhorn"

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More spontaneity

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Learning from Loss

The loss of friends carries a message. Death has the ability to teach us to live.

In the last months I have seen death in the mountains. I have been both witness to it as well as removed, watching from afar as its effect sweeps through a community of friends and family.

I have sifted through others thoughtful words after the loss of Shane McConkey, Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, Wade Johnson and two men whom we watched taken in an avalanche. There is always consistency; life is to be lived, and if in so doing one is lost, at least life was had. As a mountain person, I understand the risk inherent in the opportunity to feel tremendous joy for living within so much beauty. Loss can strengthen love by serving as a reminder the importance of appreciating the present, both for people and experiences. Jeremy Collin’s eloquent letter to Jonny Copp is a perfect summary of what I feel.

Each day I must go through our photography. In it we have a collection of memories. The nature of the way Janine and I work is to document what we do. At an early point in our careers, we made the decision that our work is less about “photo shoots” and more about shooting photos, of our lives as people who greatly enjoy being in the mountains with each other and all of our amazing friends. In our own work I see why we do what we do, it gives us life, strengthens our love, builds our characters and teaches us about the natural world and our place within it.

And so I have looked through some of our work and identified those photos that are of experiences that have made us better as people, images of perfect moments that have shaped who we are. Ironically, the most memorable, are from climbing in the mountains. Climbing can be frightening, dangerous, and difficult. But because of this, the rewards are some of the greatest . We can all identify with the emotions coming from friends of people lost. To carry on the lessons is how we can enrich others as well as ourselves, and turn something so tragic into something life giving.

Below are a few images that come from experiences that gave us life.

Alpine Sunrise - Basecamp

2001, our first climbing trip to the Swiss Alps. Too poor to stay in huts, we had to camp on the glacier. Our stay included a 3 day storm so fierce we couldn't leave the tent. The early days of our relationship with each other and with each other in the mountains.

Alpine Climbing - Monch

Swiss Alps, 2001, my first alpine route in Europe. We would spend the next 6 summers climbing in the Alps before moving over to Europe.

The Monch Summit

Janine and I on the summit, a rare day of being the only people on a Swiss mountain.

Climbing Mont Blanc

Climbing Mont Blanc with friends John and Julie Stamstad. John had raced, and finished 11th in the 100 mile/27,000 foot elevation gain Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc only a few days before. We arrived at the summit for sunrise.

Mithral Dihedral Storm

My closest friend Mark Leffler racing to our belay in a lightening storm on California's Mt. Russell. We thought we were done for as lightening was making all our gear hum and our hair tingle.

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Janine took this picture of me as we waited for Mark, previous photo, to settle into the belay. This is a look of true concern. Moments later we were rappeling.

Mt. Mendel Summit Sunset

In 2002 I did the Sierra Nevada's longest route, the Evolution Traverse with Dave Melkonian. We started in the late afternoon and bivvied on the nearly 14,000 foot summit of Mt. Mendel. This remains one of the finest trips I have done in my 23 years of climbing, not just for the route, but for the company.

Climber above the clouds at sunrise

Janine and I did a long enchainment in the Swiss Alps in 2003. Beginning at about 2 a.m., we arrived to an alpine ridge for sunrise and one of our greatest days together.

Sunrise Climbing

Continued from the previous photo, our ridge traverse in the Alps went up and over numerous peaks and always on a ridegline. It is a magical position to spend a day.

Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse

Together with friends we started the Aiguille d'Entreves Traverse above Chamonix. The weather turned from blue sky to storm very quickly. Our friends opted to turn back and descend, Janine and I continued.

Also posted in Climbing, Personal Story, Photography | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Instant Gratification

PTTiming is everything. Right? Right.

Last night we were out shooting trail running in the Dolomites with our friend Patrizia Taibon. Besides being a great friend, Patrizia has become a star model for us. Her modeling portfolio is beginning to look impressive with numerous magazine covers and ads featuring her. Being both shy and humble, when we show her something new that she is in, she typically replies with a polite smile, then an inquiry as to when we are going for a run, climb or anything else requiring endurance. She is busy, “let’s go!” – she is also a mom.

So, last night while out running, and shooting running, we received an email. Notice that we have the next (and our fifth) cover of the American Backpacker Magazine – featuring Patrizia. The layout pdf came along as well. So there we were, making photos in the Dolomites and looking at a photo of the Dolomites that we made last year for a major US magazine. Perfect timing. Patrizia was all thumbs up. Thanks Patrizia!

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Patrizia trail running in the Italian Dolomites

More trail running photos from last night’s shoot are over at DolomiteSport

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Funny Later

For two of my favorite people.

Seemingly rock bottom. That is where we were, mentally, walking along a roasting hot Bishop street. Our VW Westfalia was left behind us, a carcass of a vehicle, blown engine, cratered roof, shredded interior. In one little mistake in planning, we had lost our home, office and car. In our bank account we had enough for perhaps a new set of windshield wipers, which we actually needed, they had been torn off. This was 2001.

Walking along, in hopeless silence, a car passed by with a message that, while just a bumper sticker, and just a cliche, made us laugh at the absurdity of our situation. Determined, we put our heads down and charged.

“Tough times never last, tough people do.”

And so it is.

Happier days of VW Westfalia Life

Happier days of VW Westfalia Life

It all started with a Backpacker Magazine assignment, to head into the Sierra for a few days to shoot some work. The job came about suddenly, as we were on our way back to Bishop from, among other things, an influential to the story Trader Joes run to Sacramento. Arriving to Bishop, we packed our backpacks and headed for North Lake in our not so trustworthy VW, which, for the previous two years had served as our home and launching pad to great things. We cherished the faded yellow van, had extraordinary adventures from it, and loved the lifestyle it afforded us as we built our photo business. Lovingly, she had been named Maggie.

Arriving to North Lake, we parked, threw on our packs and disappeared into the backcountry. A few days later, after a job well done and a much needed return to town, we returned to our awaiting friend Maggie. Strolling up to the van we noticed some shredded bits of shattered fiberglass laying about. “That sucks,  car got broken into by a bear.”, we observed, remembering the truck with a camper shell that had been parked next to us. As Janine dug in her pack for the key, I stood with my pack still on, surveying the assortment of fiberglass shards. One was larger than the others and so I kicked at it, turning it over and there, to our horror, was a recognizable feature, from.. the ceiling’s interior.

If someone had been standing on the other side of the van, they would have seen, like synchronized swimmers, the tops of two, skinny, sun burnt hiker’s concerned faces both rear up with eyes peeled to what they might find on the top of the van. What they did find was of great sorrow. A crater.

And so there followed a very difficult time from that moment of realization to the moment that the key was found, inserted into the sliding door and the door opened to reveal complete and utter devastation. Yes, a bear had climbed on top of the van from the front windshield, in doing so removing the previously mentioned windshield wipers (which luckily we could afford to replace), and then proceeded to rip open the skylight, causing weakness in the fiberglass top and thus permitting the bear to plummet into the vehicle where he/she landed in a paradise of Trader Joes bags filled with pasta, jams, ginger snaps, Nutella, honey, and various other carbohydrates much to the liking of a bears sweet tooth. Based on the fact that the pop top’s canvas was shredded beyond repair, we can only assume that the bear had some difficulty exiting the interior after gorging on $150 worth of groceries.

But the tragic story of a violated home does not end here, no, sadly, it continues.

I will leave the description of our frustration, especially any comments, to the imagination and begin part two of the tale; The starting of the engine.

Once accepting of the fact that our home/vehicle/office was destroyed, we climbed in, shut the door, and started for Bishop. Not 5 minutes into our drive the engine, in an eruption of smoke and violent noise, dramatically, and with a real sense of finality, blew up. Not missing a beat, we carried on pedal to the metal, the engine nearly melting down, plumes of blue smoke billowing from the rear, shredded canvas trailing in the wind and the occasional Clif Bar wrapper being sucked out one of the pop top’s many orifices.

Amongst all of this we realized one positive. Bears, in some sort of gleeful and final add insult to injury kind of action, typically divest of their harvest prior to leaving a vehicle. A kind of icing on the cake for the returning owner of the car. But in our instance, nothing. The bear had politely waited until clawing its way from the van to offload. We’d been defiled, yes, but shit upon, thankfully, no. We would survive.

Bear Damage to Car

Also posted in Humor, Random Thoughts | 4 Comments

Cosley Houston Mountain Guides Profile

Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley

Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley

Even at 40, I think it is important to never lose the ability to both recognize and have heroes.
So many personality traits I place value on are held and demonstrated beautifully by our great friends Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley.
Like Janine and I, they are a couple managing a mountain sports business together, 24/7/365. In their case, it is a professional International Mountain Guiding Service (Cosley Houston Mountain Guides). They work in mountains around the world; from the Alps to the Himalaya, and from Patagonia to Alaska. Based in Chamonix, France, they are also American transplants to Europe.
It is rare to see anyone with such enthusiasm for getting out and being active in the mountains. They are passionate about what they do and they do it perfectly. Even while guiding full time, year round, they still call on their days off and ask if we want to go play in the mountains. This visit to our home in the Dolomites was no different, in the early stages of 7 straight weeks of nonstop ski tour guiding, they still swung by our house and off we went, ski touring.

I have been on trips alongside their own and able to see just how smoothly they operate. It is a pleasure to watch the dynamics of how well they work with people. Kathy’s endless charm, wit and storytelling all while displaying flawless mountain skills. And Mark, setting the pace and being the ever present “rock” of leadership.
In addition to working outside, day in and day out, the two run the definitive website for guiding and mountain information. And, they are the authors of the new Bible of Alpine Climbing, called, oddly enough, Alpine Climbing. Mark has been President of the American Mountain Guides Association and is a brilliant photographer. Kathy has a line of duct tape wallets and accoutrements for the mountain sports athlete.  Together, they have been “Guides of the Year.”
I have long been suspicious that they do not sleep. There image should grace a cereal box.

While visiting, we asked them a few questions:

How were the Dolomites?
“The food was incredible, we had some bad weather but we also had some phenomenal snow.”

The huts?
“The BEST ever. Private rooms, full showers, friendly people. And of course the food…”

What about the food?
“We ate too well for a ski tour, we gained weight.”

If you were to be on a cereal box, which would it be?
“It would have to be Wheaties, for the company we’d keep”, says Kathy. “Maybe Shredded Wheat”, Mark adds. “But most certainly Quaker Oats”, they agree.

How is it being a couple and working together full time, in what can be a stressful environment?
Laughs. “It is the best.” Then, silence…
“It is nice to know each other so well, problems are dealt with quickly and efficiently, to be with someone you know so well makes it easier to handle variables in the mountains. Sensing when the other person is stressed and then picking up the slack without saying anything.”

How has guiding changed in the last 10 years as the sports have become more mainstream?
“There are more clients. But they have more money and less time. But maybe we changed, what we do changes as we get older.”

How is guiding different in the US compared to Europe?
Laughs… “It is more varied, one guide can do all different kinds of guiding in Europe. There are no permits, you are free to work in the mountains. Once you have the badge you do as you please.
Yes, Europe is crowded, but the American line, “We don’t want American mountains to be like Europe” typically comes from people who don’t understand Europe, or who’ve never been.
If you want pristine mountains, don’t come here, but you can certainly find wild areas and get away from people.
The exceptional thing about Europe is the fact that the mountains are huge, and also there are all these valleys with their own cultures, languages, and architecture. For us, this is as special as going to the mountains themselves, there is discovery everywhere.”

Are Euro guides welcoming to you?
“Yes. Very. They make a policy of being welcoming to other professionals. In the States it is not always like this, they are protective of their turf, territorial. This is funny because there are so many more guides in Europe compared to the US.”

Now tell the truth, do you two sleep?
Kathy, “I am pretty attached to my 8-9 hours.” Mark says nothing, he’s become distracted by some work on the computer.

Dawn Patrol: Freezing, snowing, but always happy to be out

Dawn Patrol: Freezing, snowing, but always happy to be out

Kathy Cosley on the Haute Route

Kathy Cosley on the Haute Route

Living room cam confirms, no sleep, just work.

Living room cam confirms, no sleep.

Also posted in Dolomites, Profiles | Tagged | 2 Comments

Toph & Kim Gaylord: The Tour du Mont Blanc

Topher Gaylord on the Italian side of Mont Blanc

Topher Gaylord on the Italian side of Mont Blanc

I have a rule. It is the “Yes” rule. If someone calls and asks me to go do a fun trip. The answer, within reason, must be, “Yes”.

So when Topher Gaylord called and asked if we wanted to run the Tour du Mont Blanc (100 miles and approximately 8500 meters of gain) my answer was, “No”. But after thinking about it some, we opted to obey the rule and decided on a sketchy, “Okay”.

This was 2004. We did not know Toph or his wife Kim. Now, years later, we look back having done the trip and we are friends with some really good memories of a perfect three day tour.

Kim & Toph Gaylord with Janine Patitucci

Kim & Toph Gaylord with Janine Patitucci

Janine and I arrived to Switzerland for our usual multi-month summer shoot schedule. Within hours of getting in, Toph was on the phone. At that time, he was the President of The North Face International and we had a photo shoot scheduled later that summer in Italy where he and Kim lived. Toph thought we would all come to know one another by doing this run. He had heard we were fit and boldly decided to take the chance of spending a few days running with strangers. Now that I look back on this decision, it really was a brave thing to do as we could have been punters extraordinaire.

Toph is, quite possibly, the most psyched and motivated human on the planet. A top ultra runner, Toph has actually placed second in the Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc, the race on the same course we would run. To say Toph travels a lot is an understatement, airport staff know him. To stay fit he has been known to actually run in airports, putting on his running clothes, and actually lapping the airport, inside and out. He is one of those people the rest of us stare at.

He has two mottoes, “Charge”, and “Get after it”. This sums up Toph. Simple as the saying are, when put to practice they are life changing in a wonderful kind of way. Kim is the same. When Toph charges, she charges alongside.

Toph in full "Charge" mode at the start of the Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc. Note Italian on cellphone

Toph in full "Charge" mode at the start of the Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc. Note Italian on cellphone

The two of them recently moved back to the US and we can no longer play together in the Dolomites. But the other day as I was skinning up a peak at night and doing live Twitter feeds, I get a message from Kim, “Make some turns for us”. A huge smile came across my face, not just because someone was actually following the feed, but because I knew that the two of them had done identical things as I was doing and they understand exactly how fun it is.

Toph and Kim’s Blog can be found at : http://www.tophergaylord.blogspot.com

Enjoying the lack of border control, the Italian-French "rock line"

Enjoying the lack of border control, the Italian-French "rock line"

Toph explaining the "Charge" concept to locals

Toph explaining the "Charge" concept to locals

Also posted in Profiles, Trail Running | Tagged , , | 1 Comment

Give, give, give, and you shall receive

As I stood in front of 10 girls, in class, in my underwear, my only thought was, “There is most certainly a blog entry in this.”

Matthias had called and asked if I would be interested in donating my body to some girls for an hour. ”Yes”, seemed the obvious response.

And so I enjoyed a great massage from the University Beautician students. While on the table it occurred to me how it all works.

We have suddenly found ourselves living in this incredibly wonderful community where helping one another is taken to an all new level.

Janine and I have marveled at the ease with which we have dropped into a community of friends here. In Europe, where groups of friends are tight, it is not always so easy to be a newcomer.

Then Igor said it the other day, “In Italy you help your friends and you will be helped. The two of you have done this, and you have been welcomed.”

It was the same in our old community of Bishop where we also found friends doing things for one another that was above and beyond the call of friend duty.

It is truly a wonderful way to live. I feel that when you have found yourself amongst these people and this way of living, you have found a home.

Tonight I am off to teach an Adobe Lightroom class, free for friends, and all my pleasure.

Also posted in Life in Italy, Personal Story, Random Thoughts | Leave a comment

In India part 1

The fact that the cobra’s head was not 20 cm from my bare calf, and flicking it’s tongue at me, and I had nowhere to go to move out of the way was not what even caught my attention. What did was that I was there, amongst it all, and it felt perfectly normal: no surprises, no big deal… Just India.

And so it is, India. Undoubtedly we see more cell phones, more cars and no less people than we did five years ago. “Chaos reigns” still holds very true.

Today Paul and Jonathan arrived, the laughter has commenced. Unfortunately I am bed ridden with a throat infection and fever due to not being used to high pollution levels. My lungs miss clean mountain air and are in protest of their new environment. Tomorrow we are all off to a new and less populated area. But first… CNN Election coverage!

— Posted From My iPhone

Also posted in iPhone Blog, Personal Story, Random Thoughts | Tagged | Leave a comment