Tag Archives: alpine climbing
A Busy Week in the Life of PatitucciPhoto
We live a busy schedule of combining work with play - for us, they are one and the same, we call it life. Living and working in the mountains is simply what we do. But the last week was particularly dense with activity and has finally ended on a drizzly day in Switzerland where I can finally sit and get all caught up – for not only were we on the move, we had no phone service for much of the last 6 days.
It started with friends visiting the Dolomites, lots of road biking and a 21 pitch climb on the South Face of the Tofana, one of the Dolomites largest walls. Then it was straight to the Graubunden Region of Switzerland where we spent some days climbing in the Sciora group. From there I rode my bike back to St. Moritz before climbing another amazing wall above Disentis, Switzerland, the Piz Cavardiras. Once down from shooting photos, and the climbing itself, I jumped back on the bike and rode over several major Swiss passes before bumping into the Bernese Oberland and calling it good. As in exhausted. Maybe I have been drinking too much coffee. A huge thanks to two friends who joined and helped us in the fun; Thomas Engl and Tim Connelly.
This then is our visual diary.
Tim Connelly on the South Face of the Dolomite's Tofana - 21 pitches that he accurately described as being more of an odyssey than a climb. Agreed.
Thomas Engl on the Sciora Group's Innominata; Via di Mezzo 6a
From dumping rain, it snowed, then in ten minutes it was sunny and warm for cragging.
Shame shame shame, but well done Thommy
Thommy Engl cragging above the Sciora Hut
Thommy & Janine in the Sciora Hut, course number 1 is soup
Thommy Engl on the upper pitches of the 22 pitch Piz Pioda, 6a, in the Sciora Group
Thommy Engl on the upper pitches of the 22 pitch Piz Pioda in the Sciora Group
The Sciora Hut sits directly beneath some impressive granite walls and spires
The walk out from Sciora after an all day journey that started, and would end, with headlamps
Above Disentis, Switzerland is the Piz Cavardiras and an amazing 6b+ direct line up one of the best routes I have done anywhere in alpine terrain
What started in blue skies on the Piz Cavardiras turned cold and dank
I opted to pedal to the next venue over the Oberalp and then Furka Passes, pictured here in heavy traffic
PatitucciPhoto and the rolling office/home
Follow what we do as we do it at Twitter:
@patitucciphoto : Our photo business feed
@dolomitesport : the Inspired Mountain Living feed
Posted in Climbing, Photography
Also tagged Climbing, Europe, Mountain Sports, Photography
3 Comments
Climbing Magazine Photography
Like so many of the sports we photograph, we are passionate about the subject matter. We not only make images of these sports, but also enthusiastically take part, allowing for great memories of the images produced. So to see our work published is to see great experiences and friends get some attention – perhaps no more so than in our climbing images.
Our latest cover of Climbing Magazine is of one of our closest friends, Steve Elia, from a trip we did together in Chamonix. And the Gallery Image of Christof Ursch comes from just this past spring and a sport climbing trip to San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Ueli Steck Mountain Hardwear Website
Ueli Steck’s Himalayan Speed Project
Since our February 2011 photoshoot with Ueli Steck, much has happened surrounding this amazing athlete and alpinist. To have been a part of it, to meet and spend some days living with Ueli, is one of the great things about being a photographer. Sometimes it is our job to show off a product, other times it’s to tell a story or to simply inspire a viewer. Amongst all of this is the potential to create images that one day might have historical significance.
Tommy Caldwell on the Muir Wall
In 2001, I hung from the top of Yosemite’s El Capitan’s Muir Wall and photographed Tommy Caldwell as he free climbed one of the hardest long routes in the world. At the time it was visionary, and part of a period of intense free climbing efforts on one of the most prized walls on the planet. That same week in Yosemite, I attended a slideshow by Tom Frost, who was in his day another visionary climber. As I sat watching the show and listening to his stories, I realized my own great fortune in getting to take part in this process of progressing the sport and ideas around the sport & culture of climbing.
Ten years later, here we are with Ueli Steck. In the days we spent with him (Training with Ueli Steck) he spoke of his plans to climb 8000 meter peaks. Listening to Ueli speak of “speed climbing” was not about records or achievements but about progressing himself as an athlete and climber by moving near his limit freely in the big mountains. He was a man preparing himself at every level to go off and challenge himself. Perhaps this is what has so inspired and captivated us by Ueli, he is on a kind of mythical Hero’s Journey.
To see our images of Ueli being put to use on the Mountain Hardwear website is extremely rewarding. No less are the news reports of what he is now doing in the Himalaya and knowing we had some moments to see him preparing for what is truly an inspiring story with huge historical significance to the sport of climbing.
Ueli Steck’s updates and news can be followed via his Facebook Page, Twitter, or Mountain Hardwear’s Himalaya Speed site.
Training with Ueli Steck
I have watched the Sender film The Swiss Machine numerous times – and still the goosebumps come. Seeing Ueli Steck speed soloing the North Wall of the Eiger is something sublime. For those not familiar with this, a quick summary: Ueli Steck, alone, climbed the North Wall of the Eiger in 2:47 minutes. This is something along the lines of someone suddenly running a one minute mile. He also established alpine speed records on the North Wall of the Matterhorn as well as the Grand Jorasses. Feats that left the climbing world stunned.
Ueli Steck beneath the North Wall of the Eiger. February 2011
As a climber myself, I am in awe of his technical skills and mental strength. As an athlete, I am inspired by both his fitness and ability to push himself to limits when the consequences are extreme. Ueli Steck not only plays one of the most dangerous games, he does it as an elite athlete, combining many skills and applying them to huge objectives. One can’t help but wonder, what’s this guy like?
The subject came up recently when talking to Mountain Hardwear, a company we provide photography for and who works closely with Ueli in developing their alpine gear and clothing. With Ueli preparing for an upcoming trip to the Himalaya, I asked them about spending some days photographing him training at home in Interlaken, Switzerland. One thing lead to another and suddenly it was a go, I had Ueli on the line and a plan came together.
The catch was, Mountain Hardwear did not want a “photoshoot”, but rather a documentary of Ueli’s time which it turns out, is in great demand. Ueli is in the middle of a slideshow circuit for Explora.ch in Switzerland and has a show almost every night for 6 weeks right up until the eve of his Himalaya departure.
Photographing Ueli Steck
Typically, photoshoots include our ability to control what we photograph. We know where, when and what we will shoot ahead of time. In this case, we had no clue, we were along for Ueli’s ride. With his tight schedule, Ueli needed to maximize his training time so as to fit it in along with two shows and a TV interview – just in the two days we were with him. We were allowed to hover but not to impose, the photos had to be honest accounts of who he is. No back and forth in perfect light at a scouted location, just running by where we could get to him.
So, what was it like? How is the Swiss Machine? Janine and I met him in pre-dawn darkness in Grindelwald, Switzerland and were immediately struck by his casual, friendly nature. He’s also all business, “I’m going to run up to the Eigergletscher Station (1400 meters gain), you take the train up, ski down and shoot me where we meet. Then I wait for you at the station, bring my skis up, we’ll ski down together and then go get some lunch.” Off he went, “Tschüss!”
Setting out in the early morning to run pistes. Grindelwald, Switzerland
Coffee at Grindelwald's C & M Cafe
Later, after our turn free descent, we headed for a local cafe and finally got to spend some time sitting and getting to know this guy. Some of the creative direction provided was to capture what a “badass” he is while training. And admittedly, I had gone into the shoot with the desire to do this very thing. I wanted portraits that demonstrated his “Swiss Machine-ness”; absolute focus, maybe even a killer look in his eye. I found none of this to be the case. This was my perception of a man who has certainly done some very “badass” things, but when sitting at a table sharing a meal, I felt I was with a completely normal person who happens to have some clearly defined goals and is willing to work very hard to obtain them.
Ueli Steck winter running below the Eiger
Suddenly my perception and focus changed. With our job being to document Ueli Steck, I realized I wasn’t going to get “badass”, I was going to get a guy running in the woods behind his house, training at his local climbing gym and drinking coffee in the morning. This is who the hero is. He is a genuinely good guy working his ass off each and every day, balancing a staggering training program with a climbing profession, a media onslaught, and a happy marriage; the badass comes from what he accomplishes. Ueli Steck might be a bit uncomfortable being called a hero, but he handles it with grace. Best of all, he is a guy to learn some things from about working hard for what you want. What more could you want from a hero?
Morning run; approximately 10km, 1400 meters gain, on snow, fast.
Post morning run; straight to Interlaken's climbing gym
Many laps on hard routes
Ueli Steck presenting his show to a Swiss audience
Ueli at home; a man who loves coffee and knows how to do it right
Training in the forest behind the house
Post run; straight to Bern for a TV interview. Briefing & makeup
Another Ueli Steck day
Post TV show; straight to Bern's climbing gym
Janine and I would like to express our sincerest thanks to Ueli for welcoming us into his home and life for two days – and to Mountain Hardwear for making it all possible.
To keep track of Ueli, visit his Facebook Page: Ueli Steck
The Piz Bernina : Biancograt
Sometimes the photo end of our lives do not always play out as we would like. Thankfully, what we shoot is also exactly what we want to be doing, so either way, photos or no photos, we enjoy what we do. And so we went to Switzerland’s Piz Bernina, the easternmost 4000 meter peak in the Alps which is home to arguably the Alp’s most perfect alpine line, the Biancograt, or “white ridge”.
Our idea was to shoot stock, but also to shoot photos for our friends Matthias Larcher and Jürgen Kinzer. They are young Mountain Guides from our town in the Sud Tirol and have just launched into business guiding in the Dolomites and Alps: Bruneck Alpin
Matthias met us there after guiding Mont Blanc, his total sleep for the previous 3 days was roughly 4 hours During our trip, his daily average would not improve. Arriving late, Jürgen decided to wait so they could walk in together, which they did at 2 a.m. to meet us for 5 a.m. breakfast at the Tschierva Hut. While Janine and I took a horse drawn carriage halfway up the approach, the Guides stumbled through the darkness for three hours.
What would be the daily norm for weather started. Mostly clear, blue skies – but – dense fog & clouds swirling amongst the peaks. We climbed in warmth, but with no visibilty. Torment comes to the photographer always rising higher in the mountains only to go the same speed as the day’s rising cumulus. Matthias and Jürgen provided welcome comedy relief and I am sure the four of us could be heard laughing in the mist.
The Tschierva Hut is on the Swiss side of the Bernina and is a combination of hut circa 1800′s and modern 21st century architecture. The staff runs an immaculate and friendly home for alpine climbers. Being Swiss, dinner is at 6:30 sharp, breakfast is at 3 a.m. for Biancograt climbers – don’t be late.
The hardest part of alpine climbing is hearing my Suunto watch alarm go off at 2:50. I have been doing this for 20 years and it never gets easier, the first 10 minutes is a combination of dread for leaving the warm bed for the cold glacier, also for the imminent bone dry bread and instant Swiss coffee that needs to be consumed.
The climb itself was nothing short of perfect. We had perfect conditions, dry rock, little ice, and warm, no wind weather – but the low clouds remained preventing us from ever having more than 5 minutes of view below. The climb itself took us 5 hours from the hut, then another hour to descend to the real fun… The Italian side of the Bernina and the Marco e Rosa Hut.
Matthias and Janine on the final steep section to the summitWhile the Swiss Hut is orderly, clean, and clearly a business, the Marco e Rosa is something more like arriving to your eternal bachelor friend’s pad. The guidebook even warns, “the Hut is run by men, all men” – Italian Men. And these men live together, in complete isolation, at one of the highest huts in the Alps, tucked into rock amongst glaciers. As a visitor, one gets to visit their lives, see their porn posters, listen to their music blaring in the dining room and enjoy all things quintessentially Italian about the hut. I loved it.
Dinner was at 6, but 6 sharp means nothing in Italy, and so we ate at 7:15 and continued until after 9. But here in this hut, we had something I have never seen in the Alps… choices. These 3 Italian men, smelling somewhat of alcohol, manage to pull off an impressive dinner each night, complete with a selection of dolci and even an espresso machine for post dinner caffe. Homemade beer rounds out the selection, also with choices, bionda, rossa or wheat.
Inside the Marco e Rosa HutThe next morning we rose at 4:45 to complete our climb, a traverse of the Piz Palu. Once again we headed out into thick clouds and little visibility. Soon the sun rose, indicated by the brightening of the white environment. Finally like magic, it lifted, and just in time, we were on the summit of the Piz Palu. The warmth was welcome at 3900 meters, we laid out in the sun as if we were on holiday at the beach.
Descending the Palu is a quick affair down the glacier and through the crevasse field straight to the Diavolezza Hotel and a magnificent lunch before riding the tram to the rail station and a train ride back to Pontresina. Once again, a perfect trip. Maybe not for photography, but for the great memories that are stacking up. The Piz Morteratsch, Piz Bernina’s Biancograt and traverse of the Piz Palu – possibly the finest alpine tour in the Alps.
Janine and Jürgen on the Piz Palu as the weather finally clears
Nearing the Piz Palu summit
Ciccione, Jürgen and Matthias on “Holiday”Connect with us
