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Tag Archives: Climbing
A Busy Week in the Life of PatitucciPhoto
We live a busy schedule of combining work with play - for us, they are one and the same, we call it life. Living and working in the mountains is simply what we do. But the last week was particularly dense with activity and has finally ended on a drizzly day in Switzerland where I can finally sit and get all caught up – for not only were we on the move, we had no phone service for much of the last 6 days.
It started with friends visiting the Dolomites, lots of road biking and a 21 pitch climb on the South Face of the Tofana, one of the Dolomites largest walls. Then it was straight to the Graubunden Region of Switzerland where we spent some days climbing in the Sciora group. From there I rode my bike back to St. Moritz before climbing another amazing wall above Disentis, Switzerland, the Piz Cavardiras. Once down from shooting photos, and the climbing itself, I jumped back on the bike and rode over several major Swiss passes before bumping into the Bernese Oberland and calling it good. As in exhausted. Maybe I have been drinking too much coffee. A huge thanks to two friends who joined and helped us in the fun; Thomas Engl and Tim Connelly.
This then is our visual diary.

Tim Connelly on the South Face of the Dolomite's Tofana - 21 pitches that he accurately described as being more of an odyssey than a climb. Agreed.

Above Disentis, Switzerland is the Piz Cavardiras and an amazing 6b+ direct line up one of the best routes I have done anywhere in alpine terrain

I opted to pedal to the next venue over the Oberalp and then Furka Passes, pictured here in heavy traffic
Follow what we do as we do it at Twitter:
@patitucciphoto : Our photo business feed
@dolomitesport : the Inspired Mountain Living feed
Posted in Climbing, Photography
Also tagged alpine climbing, Europe, Mountain Sports, Photography
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Climbing Magazine Photography
Like so many of the sports we photograph, we are passionate about the subject matter. We not only make images of these sports, but also enthusiastically take part, allowing for great memories of the images produced. So to see our work published is to see great experiences and friends get some attention – perhaps no more so than in our climbing images.
Our latest cover of Climbing Magazine is of one of our closest friends, Steve Elia, from a trip we did together in Chamonix. And the Gallery Image of Christof Ursch comes from just this past spring and a sport climbing trip to San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Kalymnos Greece Climbing
As we are back to climbing this year, there is one phrase that keeps coming up over and over again, “You must climb in Kalymnos, Greece”. With the need for a holiday break from, well, mountain sports, we thought we’d go on climbing holiday. All we ever do is mountain sports, but always with the camera and the necessary focus that goes along with shooting for work. This trip was for us, climb everyday, make some friends, enjoy ourselves. But one day, in the famed Grande Grotta I had to pull out the camera, and for obvious reasons.
So was Kalymnos worth all the hype? YES! …and come November you will know where to find us for our end of season getaway.
Ueli Steck Mountain Hardwear Website
Ueli Steck’s Himalayan Speed Project
Since our February 2011 photoshoot with Ueli Steck, much has happened surrounding this amazing athlete and alpinist. To have been a part of it, to meet and spend some days living with Ueli, is one of the great things about being a photographer. Sometimes it is our job to show off a product, other times it’s to tell a story or to simply inspire a viewer. Amongst all of this is the potential to create images that one day might have historical significance.
In 2001, I hung from the top of Yosemite’s El Capitan’s Muir Wall and photographed Tommy Caldwell as he free climbed one of the hardest long routes in the world. At the time it was visionary, and part of a period of intense free climbing efforts on one of the most prized walls on the planet. That same week in Yosemite, I attended a slideshow by Tom Frost, who was in his day another visionary climber. As I sat watching the show and listening to his stories, I realized my own great fortune in getting to take part in this process of progressing the sport and ideas around the sport & culture of climbing.
Ten years later, here we are with Ueli Steck. In the days we spent with him (Training with Ueli Steck) he spoke of his plans to climb 8000 meter peaks. Listening to Ueli speak of “speed climbing” was not about records or achievements but about progressing himself as an athlete and climber by moving near his limit freely in the big mountains. He was a man preparing himself at every level to go off and challenge himself. Perhaps this is what has so inspired and captivated us by Ueli, he is on a kind of mythical Hero’s Journey.
To see our images of Ueli being put to use on the Mountain Hardwear website is extremely rewarding. No less are the news reports of what he is now doing in the Himalaya and knowing we had some moments to see him preparing for what is truly an inspiring story with huge historical significance to the sport of climbing.
Ueli Steck’s updates and news can be followed via his Facebook Page, Twitter, or Mountain Hardwear’s Himalaya Speed site.
Posted in Climbing, Clips
Also tagged Adventure Sports, alpine climbing, Photography
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Photographing Climbing in Norway and Sicily
Climbing Photoshoots
Within 12 days of one another, we had two very different climbing photoshoots. The first was ice climbing with Kurt Astner, one of the world’s best ice climbers. This assignment had us go to Norway’s Lyngen Alps to shoot for W.L. Gore and their new Gore-Tex material, ProShell.
After Norway we headed home, jumped in the car, and drove to Chamonix for a three day women’s catalog shoot for Wild Roses (Blog coming). From Chamonix we met up with good friends Christof and Evi from our hometown of Bruneck and boarded a flight for Sicily and our climbing destination, San Vito lo Capo. Both Christof and Evi are superb climbers. Best of all, inspired by the photoshoot, both were well prepared and fit to pull hard.
Photographing Ice Climbing
Shooting climbing is hard on both camera gear and the body. Shooting ice climbing compounds all of this in tortuous ways. Not only are all the usual climbing logistics present, but there are lots of sharp things around and everyone wants to keep moving because it is cold, painfully so. To fend off the cold requires bulky clothing, and this contributed to a small disaster. In an aggravated effort to keep moving, I was throwing lenses loose into my pack, ignoring the lens tubes that were supposed to be their home. The price… a broken Image Stabilizer in a 70-200 and a broken housing on a 17-40. Thankfully the loss of lenses came at the end of the shoot and not the beginning.
LowePro Camera Bags, with whom we recently began working closely with, is going to be receiving more of our attention as I commit to being more careful with gear. For me, dedicated camera bags have proven essential to the safety of camera equipment I must rely on.
At the end of the day everyone was happy. Janine and I felt good about a job well done. Kurt had made a first ascent of what he has called “White Chocolate”, WI6, Grade IV. And Gore happily reported that we nailed the look of harsh conditions they were after to market their new product. Success.
Last summer, after photographing Kurt Astner climbing on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites, we posted what became a very popular blog story. During the shoot, I wore a helmet video camera to capture what I see while shooting in these dramatic locations, I thought to do the same for this ice climbing shoot. It seems the perfect opportunity to see what it looks like to be the photographer, to get my perspective of what I am making photos of, and to watch Kurt climb. Beneath the video are a couple of stills that show the end product of what we were after.

Arriving to the ice fall Kurt had found after a two hour ski approach. 200 meters of what may be unclimbed, steep ice.
Photographing Rock Climbing
Less than two weeks later we were in a different world. Sicily’s seaside village of San Vito lo Capo has recently become a hotspot for sport climbing. With absolutely perfect limestone walls lining the Mediterranean coast, an ideal spring climate and superb food – San Vito lo Capo made sense for our next shoot, and an escape from a poor winter in the Alps.
Shooting rock climbing, especially sport climbing, is quite easy compared to what we faced in Norway. In Sicily the routes were never more than 35 meters long, were always safely bolted and had flip flop approaches. I could quickly get a fixed rope in place or even shoot from high boulders next to climbs.
The trick here was having the right people, people who could get on hard routes and climb them in style. Climbing images require a sense of power while at the same time looking to be in control. Christof and Evi are ideal.
Camera Gear for Climbing Photoshoots
In my opinion, for all things in the photography world, less is more.
For climbing, in almost all situations, I take the following:
Canon 1d Mark IV – Quality, speed and focusing points
8GB film cards – I like 8GB because I don’t have to change them so often and run the risk of dropping one. And, they aren’t so big to potentially have every image if they do get dropped.
Canon 16-35 f2.8
Canon 15mm 2.8 – For getting the wider angle with the 1d Mark IV’s conversion
Canon 70-200 f4.0 – Optional depending on how close I know I will be to the climber
Once I am on the rope I have a small top opening pack hanging below me that serves as a bucket catch all for lens tubes (be sure to actually use lens tubes…) and anything else I may need. The chest mounted camera bag allows me to quickly stow the camera to move up and down on the rope. The less is more policy is key for staying focused on the shot and the movement of the climber, not fussing around changing lenses or fiddling with various things, also the simple need of staying mobile and light.
Interested in following what we do as we do it? Follow us on Twitter @patitucciphoto
Training with Ueli Steck

I have watched the Sender film The Swiss Machine numerous times – and still the goosebumps come. Seeing Ueli Steck speed soloing the North Wall of the Eiger is something sublime. For those not familiar with this, a quick summary: Ueli Steck, alone, climbed the North Wall of the Eiger in 2:47 minutes. This is something along the lines of someone suddenly running a one minute mile. He also established alpine speed records on the North Wall of the Matterhorn as well as the Grand Jorasses. Feats that left the climbing world stunned.
As a climber myself, I am in awe of his technical skills and mental strength. As an athlete, I am inspired by both his fitness and ability to push himself to limits when the consequences are extreme. Ueli Steck not only plays one of the most dangerous games, he does it as an elite athlete, combining many skills and applying them to huge objectives. One can’t help but wonder, what’s this guy like?
The subject came up recently when talking to Mountain Hardwear, a company we provide photography for and who works closely with Ueli in developing their alpine gear and clothing. With Ueli preparing for an upcoming trip to the Himalaya, I asked them about spending some days photographing him training at home in Interlaken, Switzerland. One thing lead to another and suddenly it was a go, I had Ueli on the line and a plan came together.
The catch was, Mountain Hardwear did not want a “photoshoot”, but rather a documentary of Ueli’s time which it turns out, is in great demand. Ueli is in the middle of a slideshow circuit for Explora.ch in Switzerland and has a show almost every night for 6 weeks right up until the eve of his Himalaya departure.
Photographing Ueli Steck
Typically, photoshoots include our ability to control what we photograph. We know where, when and what we will shoot ahead of time. In this case, we had no clue, we were along for Ueli’s ride. With his tight schedule, Ueli needed to maximize his training time so as to fit it in along with two shows and a TV interview – just in the two days we were with him. We were allowed to hover but not to impose, the photos had to be honest accounts of who he is. No back and forth in perfect light at a scouted location, just running by where we could get to him.
So, what was it like? How is the Swiss Machine? Janine and I met him in pre-dawn darkness in Grindelwald, Switzerland and were immediately struck by his casual, friendly nature. He’s also all business, “I’m going to run up to the Eigergletscher Station (1400 meters gain), you take the train up, ski down and shoot me where we meet. Then I wait for you at the station, bring my skis up, we’ll ski down together and then go get some lunch.” Off he went, “Tschüss!”

Setting out in the early morning to run pistes. Grindelwald, Switzerland
Later, after our turn free descent, we headed for a local cafe and finally got to spend some time sitting and getting to know this guy. Some of the creative direction provided was to capture what a “badass” he is while training. And admittedly, I had gone into the shoot with the desire to do this very thing. I wanted portraits that demonstrated his “Swiss Machine-ness”; absolute focus, maybe even a killer look in his eye. I found none of this to be the case. This was my perception of a man who has certainly done some very “badass” things, but when sitting at a table sharing a meal, I felt I was with a completely normal person who happens to have some clearly defined goals and is willing to work very hard to obtain them.

Ueli Steck winter running below the Eiger
Suddenly my perception and focus changed. With our job being to document Ueli Steck, I realized I wasn’t going to get “badass”, I was going to get a guy running in the woods behind his house, training at his local climbing gym and drinking coffee in the morning. This is who the hero is. He is a genuinely good guy working his ass off each and every day, balancing a staggering training program with a climbing profession, a media onslaught, and a happy marriage; the badass comes from what he accomplishes. Ueli Steck might be a bit uncomfortable being called a hero, but he handles it with grace. Best of all, he is a guy to learn some things from about working hard for what you want. What more could you want from a hero?

Morning run; approximately 10km, 1400 meters gain, on snow, fast.

Post morning run; straight to Interlaken's climbing gym

Many laps on hard routes

Ueli Steck presenting his show to a Swiss audience

Ueli at home; a man who loves coffee and knows how to do it right

Training in the forest behind the house

Post run; straight to Bern for a TV interview. Briefing & makeup

Another Ueli Steck day

Post TV show; straight to Bern's climbing gym

Janine and I would like to express our sincerest thanks to Ueli for welcoming us into his home and life for two days – and to Mountain Hardwear for making it all possible.
To keep track of Ueli, visit his Facebook Page: Ueli Steck
Photographing Climbing Zion National Park Moonlight Buttress
Kurt Astner climbing Moonlight Buttress
The last six weeks has been full of traveling, visiting friends, climbing, and of course shooting it all for both work and fun. But now, life on the road is a wrap. Swapping a car full of climbing gear for a tiny backpack, sandals, and simple camera set up, we are now bound for Vietnam and Cambodia to do personal work. Our 2010 mountain sport shoot schedule is finished.
It ended appropriately with a perfect shoot on one of the best free climbs in America; Zion National Park’s Moonlight Buttress, 5.12d.
Our great friend and Italian climbing star, Kurt Astner, did Moonlight Buttress a couple of days after settling into Zion’s style. I was thrilled when Kurt agreed to go right back on the route the very next day. So good was Moonlight (and so fit is Kurt), that he was actually happy to go lap some of the best pitches, which it turns out, is pretty much all of them.
Together with Thomas Engl, we walked to the top in pre-dawn darkness, rapped in, and began shooting golden sunrise light on the top pitches. This was the day.

Kurt Astner climbing Zion's Moonlight Buttress

Kurt Astner climbing Zion's Moonlight Buttress as the first light of the day hits the wall

Kurt powering through a finger crack section

Kurt enjoying the rare mid-pitch rest

Chimney pitch wound

Kurt on the 5.12d dihedral pitch of Moonlight Buttress

Kurt sorting climbing gear
Climbing Road Trip Photos
10 years later, nothing much has changed. While 2000 was spent living in a VW Westfalia, connecting the dots that are climbing areas in the Western US and shooting photos that would be the foundation of our mountain sport photography business – 2010 is little different. While a Subaru has replaced a VW, and seeking dial up has been eliminated by an iPad, really, little has changed. I still get scared at Indian Creek, my hands still bleed from crack climbing, road tripping climbers are immense fun and Yosemite’s walls are still HUGE. Best of all, we still love making photos that document life on a climbing road trip, there is just nothing like it. Climbing ties it all together, immerses us in a unique culture and gives us a goal beyond just photos.
Here then are some of our favorite images from the last month on the road, not necessarily for work, but from our life in the Sierra Nevada, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Valley, Indian Creek and Castle Valley.

Kurt Astner wrestling with hand jams on the Phoenix, 5.13a, in Yosemite Valley

Kurt Astner on Phoenix 5.13a

Heading down at sunset after climbing desert towers, Castle Valley, Utah

Alberto De Giuli coiling the rope after rappelling off Castleton Tower

Alberto De Giuli topping out on Tuolumne's Cathedral Peak as the first raindrops of an October storm begin

Alberto De Giuli and Janine Patitucci moving quickly up the final 4th class of the East Buttress route to the summit of Mt. Whitney

Washing up in Iceberg Lake beneath the East Face of Mt. Whitney

Night scene in camp beneath Mt. Whitney

Watching the sunset from the Grandview Trail in Canyonlands National Park

Hiking into Mt. Whitney and Iceberg Lake

Approaching the impressive East Face of Mt. Whitney and Keeler Needle











































